A 90-year-old great-grandfather, John Interlandi, is defying retirement and continues his lifelong passion for cheesemaking. With a spring in his step and no signs of slowing down, he works alongside his grandson, Michael, carrying on a family tradition that began with his Italian migrant parents.
Mr. Interlandi's father, an ambitious man, arrived in Australia in the late 1920s, seeking a better life. He joined forces with two fellow Italians he met on the ship and together, they purchased and cultivated 121 hectares of land, establishing a dairy farm in the Strzelecki ranges.
Life on the farm was simple but fulfilling. Mr. Interlandi recalls the daily chores of farming, from planting potatoes to caring for cattle and sheep, and the delicious meals they enjoyed.
But here's where it gets interesting...
Italian migrants initially came to Gippsland for work, first as woodcutters in the goldfields and later as coal miners. However, post-World War II, a wave of agricultural laborers settled in the region, establishing potato and dairy farms.
With a growing European migrant population and a demand for continental cheeses, Mr. Interlandi watched his father make cheese, a skill he would later master himself.
Food historian Tania Cammarano sheds light on the early presence of Italian cheese in Australia, dispelling the belief that it arrived with migration in the 1950s. She explains that it was considered 'fancy cheese,' a term used to describe any cheese that wasn't cheddar.
As migration increased and more Italian restaurants and cookbooks emerged, attitudes towards Italian cheese began to shift. The opening of espresso bars in Melbourne further romanticized the Italian image, contributing to the growing popularity of Italian cuisine and cheese.
Mr. Interlandi and his wife, Jackie, played a significant role in this culinary evolution. In 1971, they obtained a factory license and established Europa Cheese, selling mainly pecorino and parmesan. Their business thrived, supplying all states except Tasmania, and adapting to the changing tastes of Australians.
The slow food movement, which promotes local and homemade foods, has brought a full-circle appreciation for self-sufficient, Italian-inspired living. Mr. Interlandi believes that people are now favoring Australian and local produce, recognizing the authenticity and flavor of homegrown products.
Despite selling the Europa brand in 2025, Mr. Interlandi's passion for cheesemaking remains unwavering. He continues to share his wisdom and knowledge, striving for perfection in every cheese he makes.
At 90, he still chases that perfect cheese, a testament to his dedication and love for the craft.
What do you think? Is there a special place in your heart (and stomach) for Italian cheese? Do you agree that local produce often tastes better? We'd love to hear your thoughts in the comments!
