The latest Titanium and Platinum Versions of the Slim d’Hermès Squelette Lune are redefining watchmaking with their striking aesthetics and technical sophistication. But here’s where it gets controversial: these editions aren’t just about materials—they challenge our notions of luxury and innovation in horology.
First launched in 2015, the Slim d’Hermès collection is renowned for blending precision with understated elegance. Its sleek, slender profile—characterized by a 39.5mm diameter case and only 8.8mm thick—embodies a modern watch design that harmonizes minimalism with the distinctive touch of Hermès, notably its typography. Initially offered as a simple, time-only piece powered by a micro-rotor movement, the collection quickly gained recognition for its clean lines and unique design elements, such as its angular, airy lugs that lend it an air of contemporary sophistication.
As the collection evolved, Hermès introduced more complex versions, including models with perpetual calendars and GMT functions, each adding layers of functionality while maintaining the collection’s aesthetic integrity. Then, in 2021, Hermès unveiled the Slim d’Hermès Squelette Lune, marking a bold step into visible mechanics by revealing the intricate workings inside. Now, Hermès expands this line with two contrasting editions: a classic platinum model and a modern, textured titanium version.
Despite their differences in material and appearance, both watches share the same foundational design principles established by the original 2021 Squelette Lune model. The case design remains consistent—a sleek, refined shape with seamlessly integrated, modern lugs. The platinum edition embodies timeless luxury with an entirely polished finish, complemented by a matching bezel, while the titanium variant showcases a rugged, textured surface achieved through bead-blasting techniques, creating an intriguing contrast between matte and polished elements.
The titanium version, crafted from grade 5 titanium, features a bead-blasted mid-case and case back, contrasted by a polished, anthracite DLC-treated bezel. The dial matches this textured approach with a subtle, matching color, and the movement inside is coated in a sophisticated green hue called “Vert d’Eau,” adding a pop of color to the modern look.
In contrast, the platinum model reflects traditional luxury with its fully polished case and bezel, highlighting Hermès’ dedication to craftsmanship. Its dial and movement are accented with a deep blue hue, with silver accents providing a striking contrast. The straps reinforce the overall aesthetic: the titanium version comes with a grey alligator strap, while the platinum edition complements a rich blue alligator strap.
The crown jewel of these watches is their openworked design, showcasing the skeletonized movement created in partnership with Vaucher Manufacture. The craftsmanship reveals beautifully curved bridges, contrasting finishes such as bead-blasted and diamond-polished surfaces, and intricate bevels, especially striking on the blue edition. The double moon phase complication at 6 o'clock offers a realistic view of our satellite, enhancing the watch’s poetic appeal. Meanwhile, slim black gold-treated batons indicate the hours and minutes, maintaining readability without clutter.
Powering these timepieces is the renowned Vaucher Calibre H1953, a robust yet ultra-thin movement with a skeletonized architecture and micro-rotor. It operates at 3Hz, offering a respectable 48-hour power reserve, and boasts a rich decoration of diamond-cut bridges and bead-blasted finishes, all visible through the sapphire caseback.
Pricing for these exceptional watches isn’t fixed publicly; however, the titanium edition is estimated to be around EUR 20,000, with the platinum version available upon request. Both are part of Hermès’ permanent collection, emphasizing their significance within the brand’s horological portfolio.
So, what do you think—are these new editions redefining luxury by merging traditional craftsmanship with bold material choices, or is Hermès pushing boundaries too far? Drop your opinions in the comments—it's a conversation worth having!
For detailed technical specifications and further insights, visit Hermès’ official site or the dedicated review page.
Technical Highlights:
- Case: 39.5mm x 8.8mm, bead-blasted titanium on grey model, polished platinum on blue model
- Crystal: Sapphire front and caseback, water-resistant to 30 meters
- Dial: Openworked with sunburst textures, moon phase complication at 6 o'clock
- Movement: Vaucher Calibre H1953, skeletonized, automatic, 3Hz, 48h power reserve
- Strap: Alligator in matching color, with titanium or platinum buckle
- Price: Approx. EUR 20,000 for titanium; platinum price on request.
